splicing brake line: compression fitting killing me?

my right rear brake line is rusted and has a hole in it above the differential on my '96 cougar. i've cut off the rusted line from under the driver's side and removed whatever was behind it.

i made the mistake of thinking this would be an easy replacement. i've picked up several lengths of 3/16" steel brake line tubing from the parts store. some of it is bubble flare and some is double flare. i went out of my way to get 10x1.0mm threaded ends to keep the car all the same thread.

-first, i bought a double flaring tool. the tool first compresses and bulges the diameter of the tube (is this the official 'bubble flare' shape at this point?) and then i remove an insert and finish compressing for the double flare. however, the tool sucks and will not flare straight.

-then, since the double flare tool sucks, i used my single flare tool. this worked for a few ends, then the tool was stripped and will not hold a 3/16" tube without slipping during compression. i think it's stripped because it may only be designed for use with brass and aluminum and not steel tube.

-now, since both tools aren't working properly, i'm thinking about using a compression fitting. this would be extremely easy since it requires no flaring, but I've seen a web page or two that says that this will kill me. will this blow out and kill me? can I braze it?


can anyone answer the following?
- is a compression fitting setup safe? any success or horror stories?
- is a single flare setup safe?
- where can I find a durable and reliable double flaring, bubble flaring, or single flaring tool? the one's i've used so far are from pep boys and autozone. what do the pros use?


please help. the cougar is up on blocks and i need it soon.

thanks.

bob

OK,,don't cut corners when it comes to your brakes. It's not just you that can wreck, How about the other car that you hit.
Don't do compression fittings. Your brake system creates too much pressure to keep this safe. Have you ever done compression fittings on the plumbing in your house, only to see it leak?
You should get a quality tool and good advice from a NAPA or Carquest store.
If those are not around, check the yellow pages for a brake shop and go and ask questions.

double flare is the only way to go in this case. been told from experienced people around here. you don't want to go through what my friend went through by going the easy way such as single flare.

[img/]http://members.tccoa.com/chuacw/rear%20brake%20connector.jpg[img/]

still holding fine after 1.5 years now.

I got a double flaring tool, probably from NAPA years ago. But, you have to take a piece of line and practice until you can do it good everytime.
Since you are replacing the section of line, why don't you take the old line and the new line to a brake shop and ask them to flare it for you.

this is a skill that i need to learn. i just sacked up and bought a higher quality tool off the internet along with some 3/16" brake line. as for practice, i did, and all that happened was that the tools bent and stripped their grip on the pipe. i had sucky tools and hopefully this new tool will work fine.

since i left the right rear line cut and covered it with a plastic baggy, it will drain my reservoir. when i splice the line, will i have to do more than fill the reservoir and bleed the right rear, or do you think i'm going to have to have to bleed the master cylinder?

i suck at bleeding brakes and speed bleeders are the only way i can get by.

thanks.

bob

Well, this reply is getting to you late. But, before you touch the brake pedal, fill the reservior. You shouldn't have to bleed the master cylinder itself, but you will need to bleed all 4 wheels now, because some air got into them .

Joe Llamahead said:

Boba,
I suspect that by now you have solved this problem But I'm posting for the other folks that may be reading
I have made plenty of tubing flares with cheapo flairing tools the thing is to start with the proper length of tubing. a picture would be better to show you but I'll try and describe........You can use the tool that fits into the tube and starts the first flare(there is one for each size of tubing the tool can do) use the thick edge of this iool as a gauge for how much tubing to have sticking out from the clamp.
when you get it right, the final flair will come flush with the clamp and the flair can't be bent or crooked.
I hope this helps

Click to expand...

That is exactly what I was going to post. The guage he is speaking of is the first piece that you place in the tool to make the buble flare. Flip it over and make the tube flush with the top of it. That is your guage. It may be a tad off depending on your cut but it will work...and remember...NEVER compression fitting for brakes.

Chris

isn't what i use is compression fittings?

Yes it is. Those are SUPER prone to leaking. I would not use one of those at all. If yours has worked for you thats great but anyone who has a state inspection in their stated will not pass it and anyone who woks in a shop will not put one on because of their ability to leak.

Chris

i agree NO compression fittings , they are faulty by design , double flare and use a union , just like said brake picture above, the line will fail before the union /flare fittign will

any picture of union fitting?

Double flare is the only way. I had a Grand Marquis rust a line several years ago. I removed the whole brake line, took it to a machine shop where they made the short section double flared the old long end and new short end supplied the coupler for about $10. I came home and put it back in coupled it together, bled the line and was good to go. No tools to buy and very safe.