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Exhaust Leak where header & pipe connect

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#1
01-29-2008, 10:47 PM
Lee93Ford
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Exhaust Leak where header & pipe connect

I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
#2
01-30-2008, 09:21 AM
Bear River
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I don't know if there is supposed to be a gasket or donut in there, but I do know that longtube headers do often leak as you describe. I think it has more to do with the fact the the rest of the exhaust is custom with longtubes, and if the flare that fits over the ball on the header is wrong, it will leak. If these are shortubes, perhaps the ball one them is wrong or has a defect.
#3
01-30-2008, 09:22 AM
dkf
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I take it you have the stock cast manifolds?

There probably is no gasket. You may need to take the truck to an exhaust shop to have the pipe reflared to fit the ball on the manifold better.

You could try putting some Permatex High Temp "Ultra Copper" silicone on the manifold ball. Make shure it is clean though. If its a small leak the silicone may seal it up.
#4
01-31-2008, 07:23 AM
flowriteexhaust
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If they are long tube headers and they are still in decent shape, you can have a muffler shop cut the end of the header and then cut the pipe behind the collector and then just weld in a piece of pipe, if they weld it all the way around, no more leak, but if you have to pull the engine or something you'd have to sawzall it in that spot again
#5
01-31-2008, 09:23 AM
Bear River
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I disagree. the reason that have that type of flange is to allow the rest of the exhaust and motor to move slightly and relieve any stress from vibrations. If you cut the pipe and weld the two together, the inertia of the exhaust system can break your headers or break the studs off in the head. If you went this route, definitely add some flex pipes in that area to relieve the stress.
#6
01-31-2008, 09:25 PM
flowriteexhaust
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The only way that joint would flex is if there were spring bolts there, if there were regular collector bolts, locks and nuts, and were tight, there is no way that joint flexes. Those collectors are usually so rusted on, you have to smack them with a hammer to get them off. I've been repairing them like that for 20 years and never had a header or header bolt break. I've had people come back after many years and have the repair redone because it rotted out. I find your posts on converters very informative, but I have to dissagree on this one. That's what makes America great though!
#7
01-31-2008, 11:03 PM
mudgepondexpress
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What brand of headers? You have found the Achilies heal of nearly every header with a 3 bolt flange. If someone tightened the bolts too much the 3 bolt flange bends to the point the 2 touch and then you can't get a good seal on the ring. It should have a gasket in there unless it is a slip fit design (some Hooker) or a bell style (stock Ford). Get the good Victor/Dana ones from NAPA, graphite type and do not overtighten them!

I have seen numerous brands over the years but I am a die hard Hooker fan. The 3 sets I have had over the years of Hookers never leak, NEVER! Even with loose exhaust flange bolts the were solid as a rock.

Kenny
#8
01-31-2008, 11:44 PM
Bear River
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Ok, I WAS picturing units with the spring joints. So I guess this case doesn't have them, my bad. I guess I'm thinking of the wrong exhaust system. Yeah, if was not designed with a ball joint, then a flex is not needed.
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